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"Vieques
Though Vieques is only six miles east of the mainland, it seems far removed from the bustle. One of its natural highlights is best explained by my eight-year-old sonís diary: "Tonight we went to a bay where the fish glow in the dark. And when you jump in, the bay lights up around you!"
Fact is stranger than juvenile fiction. Viequesí Puerto Mosquito Bay boasts one of the worldís largest, brightest concentrations of the worldís largest, brightest concentrations of dinoflaggelates (single-celled pyrodinium). Sharon Grasso, who ferries visitors here in her electric boat, says the micro-organisms are attracted to the abundance of mangroves and the limited sea access. And itís the agitation tatmakes them light up. Nighttime swimmers , fish or human, make glittery trails through the black water.
Vieques is amply developed- by eight-thousand proud Viequenses,
If most of the green island looks like a virginal land trust, that is an illusion. Two-thirds of it is owned by the Navy, steward of an accidental nature preserve. Its serenity is protected by the kind of caveat that travel agents cannot emphasize - bombs. Because the Navy sometimes conducts remote target practice off Vieques, beachgoers pass friendly " check points" to enter the preserve.
Should the Navy protect its fragile wilderness, or give the land back to islanders? The old question recently resurfaced when the Navy announced plans to plant Vieques with 50- acre system of radar towers designer to net Colombian smugglers heading north"
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